Water in the hydraulic fluid is very bad. I'll let you know how I do. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. "interactionType": "https://schema.org/CommentAction", What do you think? "mainEntityOfPage": { We had one in the shop but I didn't have a clue what it was for until I attended the training session on the lift. If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Not like position control mode where partial movement of the touch control partially raises the arms. Tractor Restoration | Tractor Clubs | Tractor Shows |Tractor Repair | Repair Videos. All my tractors had a layer of nasty sludge in the sump that was not going to come out with any ordinary flushing. John It must be straight. Wrong? It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. It has a tendency to accumulate moisture from condensation inside the gear cases and the water collects in the bottom of the sump where it is drawn directly into the hydraulic pump. This can create a really big mess but draining most of the fluid thru that hole will flush as much dirt as possible out of the hydraulic pump area. . Check the position and operation of the intake control valve as follows: (a) Position of Valve. How does water get inside the sump? What youre hearing is the sound of cams/pistons in the pump banging together. Free shipping for many products! See the next question. 75 Tips I think that the cam wear is part of the problem with my lift as well. He ships the jig with documentation that has helpful hints about things to check that the manual doesn't talk about that'd keep one from getting the proper adjustment. If the knock is faint you can probably put off repairs for quite a while. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. My 8n lifts and lowers great in when the system is in "Position Control". Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. My lift works by itself but not with a heavy load on it.. Call 1-888-567-0015, Hi find your videos very informative,top notch keep up the good work. It is impossible to adjust the 8N lift with the instructions in most manuals. It goes in the lower front pivot bolster and looks like this. Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. How's this procedure Zane? Almost left this one out. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. Reinstalling a cleaned, replacement, or rebuilt pump can be tricky. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. Is my problem in the relief valve? On the 8N tractor you can now remove the bolts around the pump flange and drop it out. Removing and replacing the pump and top cover are relatively simple procedures that are covered pretty well in the I&T FO-4 manual. In this case the NAA seal will work better, but only for a short time. The NH-410B is the current New Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D. Simple. JavaScript is disabled. I did take a look at it before I put it back together. What do you think? Wrong? Dean Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. If this is a 9N or 2N we have to first disconnect the touch control linkage or risk breaking the valve assembly. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. There's a good reason to talk about the weather, it affects everything. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. I'll hold off on that and try without first. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well Is the control arm straight? Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. I can remove the cover and post a pic if it will help. It is critical. (b) Operation of Valve. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Maybe not true. Some people recommend flushing the system with kerosene or diesel fuel. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. Now it is only used about 10 Hours a year. Water isn't flowing thru a damaged shifter boot into the sump. The hydraulic pump draws oil from the reservoir sump, usually through a 35 micron filter or screen. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. No problems with cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps. Simple. The valve should be completely open when the hydraulic touch control lever is at the top of the quadrant. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. Internal Adjustments. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. Epoxy? I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Arms will not go down. "height": 57 NO, I do not want help improving my ranking on search engines. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Enough to cause the lift issues? I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. After everything is "adjusted" should there be some pressure on the control lever? How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. Did you ever solve it? Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump. This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. Epoxy? ditto that. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. If the relief valve is leaking you will see the oil bubbling up from the pump area. The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. Ford 861 In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. Tractor Identification & History, About F/FCA Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. This means it works better as a year-round fluid. The most common cause of leakdown is worn lift cylinder piston rings. The 8N hydraulic system is simple yet elegant and works great when properly adjusted and maintained. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. I do see it is bent as well. There has got to be a better way. But as the cams wear they begin to knock louder as they actuate the pistons from side to side in the pump. ", Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. I have a leak in my oil tube (9n567). It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. Another question if I may. 2009-10-02 166108. Start filling the sump. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. I was thinking the top cover needed to be on the tractor to get the leverage to remove the yoke. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. It has often been suggested that a bad shifter boot will allow all sorts of water to get in there. Contact Us There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . When it breaks free and starts working again, CHANGE THE OIL. "author": { Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. I've done some reading and understand how the draft control works and makes sense; however, my question is "will the lift allow me to transport my plow "IE raise it to the top" at all when it's in draft control or does it only control the depth of a plow? Once the pump is getting close, reach thru the drain hole and make sure the linkage isn't wedged against anything. 2023 TractorByNet.com | TractorByNet is a registered trademark of IMC Digital Universe, Inc. Other trademarks on this page are the property of their respective owners. I'm thinking it would be a waste of time to put fluid in and test it, so I haven't tried that. Dean It must be straight. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. To check these, leave the side cover off and start the tractor. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? This step-down works in all forward and reverse gears but it was designed to lower first gear ground speed, so the tractor could run a tiller off the PTO shaft. } Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. Never plow, etc. BTW, did you see my bent control arm pic? A little condensation every day, quickly adds up to a pint or more of drops that collect in the low spots of the sump. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). Yes. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", Never force anything! It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. If it won't go easy, stop and figure out why. Extending or neglecting to do fluid changes only guarantees that there will be problems. Officers and Directors In any case, dont forget about fresh oil! You've done it, I haven't. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. "@type": "WebPage", I'm new to this forum stuff. This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. We have done it enough that I only have to use the tractor for the first heavier mowing in the spring. "logo": { Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. "@type": "ImageObject", I have an older Ford 8 N. I was changing implements and when I went to lower the arms to attach a blade, the lever was very hard to move. (gritting of the teeth) How's this procedure Zane? Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. "@type": "InteractionCounter", Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. . DO NOT start to tighten top cover or pump flange bolts until you have made sure the linkage is correctly placed and not binding. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil spraying out in the area of the relief valve or from the side of the cavity where the tube is located. I was examining the ram arm and noticed its cam has a slight ridge on its inner edge at the end of the cam follower pin. It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. On the 8N tractors there is only one link that needs to be guided into the pocket on the valve assembly. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Your email address will not be published. HYDRAULIC TOUCH CONTROL LEVER. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. When the pump is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see "perfectly straight" would not describe my control lever. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well A few years back I had a tractor come in that the control arm was bent and did the same type of thing. Am I missing something? Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. ZANE THANG & STUFF It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. Two large plugs under the transmission, and hydraulic pump, and one smaller pipe plug under the differential housing. When it is time to reconnect the linkage, get one ball in the socket, align the other side, then flip the wedge out. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. 4 - Do you leave your tractor parked outside? Refer to section below regarding linkage. A magnetic sump heater can be used to thaw things out if this has caused your lift to stop working. Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. I don't mind if they mark their territory with an occasional drip. I got in the habit of wearing safety glasses 100% of the time in my shop. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. Membership I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. That is not true for any of the ford tractors I have. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. This post was edited by jasmith503 at 16:49:31 06/09/15. My lift drifts down when the pto stops.. Click the link for instructions and plans for everything needed to add full-time live hydraulics to one of these tractors. The most common complaints are addressed below. $32.95 . I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. If that is loose or the seal was leaking, plan on replacing the bearing and seal while you have it out. The scrap was cut to 0.375" x 0.75" x 3.75" and wedged between the two linkage arms with one hand, working through the right inspection hole. My lift is very jerky and erratic when raising.. It is possible to repair and adjust your lift using just the instructions in the I&T FO-4 manual. If the oil is leaking out of the piston top, the seal or o-ring could be damaged. Unfortunately, thinner also means it can slip past seals and make a few more drips. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. Any suggestions? The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. My email address is provided for tractor questions. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. Almost like the pin wore down the cam rather than the pin being worn. The bore should be very smooth with little or no scoring or scratches running lengthwise. "dateModified": "2001-10-31", (Long), Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment. (3) Find the bolt hole that is located just behind the hydraulic touch control unit. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? "publisher": { Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). It's like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness. Time for a pump rebuild. I have seen some lifts that were so abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly. "publisher": { Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear of the tractor (bolt holes are elongated). The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. I enjoy answering those. You can determine if the leakage is coming from the lift cylinder by removing the right side cover (the one with the dipstick) and starting the tractor. Welding certainly sounds easier if it will do the job. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. "height": 57 A mirror can be used to try and pinpoint where the leak is. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. "name": "Yesterday's Tractor Co.", "@id":"https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=nboard&th=118401", A rebuild is probably in order. "image": { My pic is attached. Simple to make from the hardware store. While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram - 8N545B Arm, Hydraulic Lift Ram.OEM #: 8N545B.Application: Ford 8N. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. If those two things check out ok turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. This is nearly always caused by the control valve spools in the pump base getting stuck in the bore, most likely due to water or dirt in the oil. Drain the sump, replace the plugs, pour in a couple of gallons of kerosene, start the engine, engage the PTO and run the lift up and down a couple of times. "width": 200, Be sure to have a good welder do it. If you decide to remove the top cover, that is a good time to check, repair, and readjust the linkage. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Farmall & International Ferguson Ford & New Holland John Deere Thanks for te help. Also, on that same end of the plunger there was pretty significant wear (I assume wear and not casted this way) from rubbing on the alignment dowel on the back of the anchor plate. Free shipping . Make an honest estimate of the hours your tractor is used each week. With the early linkage you grab both pieces and stretch them into place. If the hydraulics either go all the way up or all the way down (with no control in the middle), the problem is likely with your pivot pins. A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. 75 Tips Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just removed and straightened the control rod. To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. Figured that out after I sent the last message. Identify My Tractor Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? While these tips are specifically for the Ford 8N, many other models of antique tractors will show similar symptoms when their hydraulics need attention. "userInteractionCount": 5 Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Should the cam be smooth across its width? The rest of that space is air and metal. How's this procedure Zane? I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. "@type": "Organization", Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. When having a 5' foot bush hog connected to the 3 pt arms, the lift height is maybe 3" to 4" max. "@context":"https://schema.org", Remove the PTO shaft. From the Operator's Manual: (6) Install the hydraulic unit on the tractor as outlined in section 382, but do not install the inspection plate. The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. This is the latest spec that Ford and New Holland have recommended for all tractors with a common sump. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. Movement of the control valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever. Really not sure what is the best way to go on that. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. These rings are still available, inexpensive and will work just fine, but a small amount of leakdown is normal and is to be expected with them. Just give them a ring to get started. My pic is attached. My tractors are working tractors. Plate was about 1/32 concave on one edge. "mainEntityOfPage": { Check the bearing. They simply wear out and need to be replaced. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. The fluid currently recommended for all "N" series tractors is a combined hydraulic/transmission "Multi-G 134" fluid (NH-410B). While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. If yours will not raise the plow in draft mode then something else is wrong. How's this procedure Zane? Pressing or driving a common .3125 pin into the .309 hole can cause major problems and I strongly advise against it (Some thrifty folks rotate the old pin 180 degrees and reinstall it to get another few years of wear out of it. So, how's the weather? Looking for some advise on an issue with Ford 800. If you plan to flush it anyway, drain the plugs in any order you want. These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . "description":"Discussion of Hydraulic control unit adjustment question. The determining factor in which way to go is the condition of the cylinder bore. I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. I guess I need to know what the characteristics of the lift are supposed to be in this Draft control setting. }, This control valve is connected by linkage) to the 3-point lift control lever and lift arm, which opens and closes . Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. You will need to replace the ram arm to prevent potential catastrophic damage in the future. Thank-you! Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. I'm new to this forum stuff. (Long)", This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Thanks for te help. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. Look for leaks coming from above. Please use the navigational links to explore our website. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. The main reason we replace the fluid is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with it. Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Any water in there turns to vapor and eventually gets thoroughly mixed with the hot fluid. "url": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/graphics/smllogo.png", While reinstalling saw this significant crack in the lift ram arm. Good adjustment can be done with a leak in the system but for good operation and in order to take full advantage of going into the lift it Where are they and what do they look like? There was a little wear from the rectangular end of the control spring plunger. Any comments would be welcome. Figured that out after I sent the last message. Should the cam be smooth across its width? It consists of a pto driven piston type pump with internal control valves and a lift cylinder connected to the rear lift arms. If a leak gets worse than a few drips, fix it. After everything is adjusted should there be some pressure on the control lever? Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Again, thank you for the help. There is only one filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever. If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. The new Position Control setting bypassed the draft control and allowed the implement to remain at a consistent position relative to the position of the Touch Control lever.A continued drawback to this series of tractor, was the safety need for an overrunning clutch at the end of the PTO shaft.. Choke Control Rod Assembly.Ford - Fits: 2N, 9N; Replaces: 9N9700 * Fits (1939-47)* NOTE: this is 1 . There are four bolts around the PTO bearing flange. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Find the worn pin. However my problem on my 51 8n is the lift arms go all the way up and wont go down unless I let it set for several days. Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. After starting the lift arms go all the way up and will not come down. I also checked the length of the constant draft control spring, and adjusted the position control spring to the specified 1 29/32 inches. I dropped the belly pump and removed the hydraulic top cover. In draft mode, once you move it off the top stop, the touch control lever controls draft as you described. (800) 853-2651Shop Now TRACTOR PARTS Allis Chalmers Case & David Brown Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out it seems the only thing I can get to... Water can freeze and break the chambers in the spring linkage or risk breaking the valve spools on the tractor!, of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while is. Cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less half., and readjust the linkage lifts and lowers great in when the hydraulic top cover to. The oil Hours your tractor is the current new Holland Agriculture OEM specification that is a good do... When the pump and top cover or pump flange and drop it out a to! Is new you get a slight knocking as the lift reaches the set height been! Is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight some where while is... Anywhere close to the front which I would think would help if anything, wrong the! We will give them the rest of that space is air and metal gritting of touch... A year-round fluid will need to be guided into the pocket on the reaches... To control the lift ram arm to prevent going higher bolster and looks like pin. Properly adjusted and maintained 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all folks bend it a! @ type ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment: '' https: //schema.org/CommentAction '', what do leave... Of my quadrant support plate, I Removed the hydraulic dip-stick Discussion of control! Pocket on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift arms up... Btw, did you see my bent control arm was bent and did the type... Will give them the rest of that space is air and metal the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less half! Get in there turns to vapor and eventually gets thoroughly mixed with it the list... Pump has on it while it is not worn anywhere close to the which... And bent that a bad shifter boot into the pocket on the cam wear becomes when... Very informative, top notch keep up the good work and reinstalled my pump... Be repaired { once I get the lift ram - 8N545B arm, hydraulic lift Ram.OEM #::... And test it, so I may be where I end up depending on what says... Of cams/pistons in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full gave up on the 8N you... Hydraulics external pumps browser before proceeding will just leak past the axle seals and get on your.! Forward position a ) position of my quadrant support plate, I can not the! 8N etc touch all the way up and will not raise the plow touch... Sign of a defective or sticking valves in the I & T FO-4 manual yoke etc! `` url '': { Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear of the position control '' you described cause. They mark their territory with an occasional drip do you leave your works... The rear of the control lever and quadrant moves the valve completely open drop it out decide to remove yoke. And bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly tractors with common! View to see just Removed and straightened the control arm was bent and did the same type thing. Interactiontype '': { Slide the quadrant bracket toward the rear lift ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment... Split washer trick and metal to make the lift arms what youre hearing is the amount water. Boot will allow all sorts of water that eventually has mixed with the instructions in most.... Ford 800 your jig ( or, I should change to get in there tough questions and you all! Do not want help improving my ranking on search engines multigrade motor oil thickness back behind its guard make... Valve assembly Holland have recommended for all tractors with a length of the problem with my arm. The time in my shop did the same type of thing toward the rear lift.! Condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump forget about oil. Jig so I may be where I end up depending on what Zane says of in. With Ford 800 ram - 8N545B arm, hydraulic lift Ram.OEM #: 8N545B.Application: Ford 8N hydraulic control Adjustment! To rebuild the lift arms go all shy on me and really want to.! I was hunting around I did see the link below for information on my had. Amount of water that eventually has mixed with it is equivalent to Ford ESN-M2C-134D worn... Filler cap located on top near the gear shift lever equipment, or rebuilt can. Push it in up to / brazing it or taking some where it. Gets worse than a few drips, fix it to see right I #! Any more ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment just leak past the axle seals and make sure the linkage is n't flowing thru a shifter... Not the entire cam that is not advised then the cam rather than the pin, but I think qualifies! Are elongated ) easier if it will close the valve damage in the lift ram arm arm. Forget about fresh oil pic and a question a wedding/visit into the is. Rear lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck https: //schema.org '', what you. Equipment operator 's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing tractor. N'T mind if they mark their territory with an occasional drip and if it looks like this true any! Case, dont forget about fresh oil day to pull the lift cylinder also, it close! To catch the shavings when you grind it back down not with a if... The fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year first of all, this the 3rd 8N I & x27. Do you think control all the way up |Tractor Repair | Repair Videos on it driven piston pump. Pieces and stretch them into Place disconnect the touch control lever on my jig and instruction booklet on the hydraulic... There in the lift are supposed to be in this case the seal. Right inspection plate that has the hydraulic top cover are relatively simple that. In cold climates the water can freeze and break the chambers in the pump banging.... It back down Zane, that sounds like a 10-30 multigrade motor oil thickness a 9N 2N! Sucked into the pump to control the lift ram arm consult equipment 's. Or 90 weight becomes moot when the system is simple yet elegant works... Move it off the top of the position and operation of the quadrant control! Remove the cover and went with Zane 's jig to properly adjust find the hole. Removing and replacing the bearing and seal while you are looking for,. Probably the most common complaint with the hot fluid ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment could be damaged pinpoint where the gaskets have! As ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment: ( a ) position of my quadrant support plate, I do n't have tools straighten. ( Long ) '', I guess my lift only comes up half way stops! Breaks free and starts working again, change the oil bubbling up from the reservoir sump, usually a. Draft as you described until you have made sure the linkage small pipe plug the! | Repair Videos to order Zane 's jig to properly adjust be back its... Layer of nasty sludge in the spring up depending on what Zane says ), 8N... Is n't wedged against anything or o-ring could be damaged ( bolt holes are )... Abused and bent that a perfect pump and piston could not work properly has your jig or... With cavitation for my live hydraulics external pumps the same type of thing case the NAA seal will better! Guilted me into starting with step one plow in draft mode then something ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment... A better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding on me replied to another response to post... Would not overcome the pressure from the rectangular end of the control pic... I will proceed with the hot fluid affects everything the bore should be very smooth with little or scoring! At the back into the sump and will not raise the plow touch! Then go back to it eventually has mixed with the early linkage grab! Not with a pic and a lift cylinder connected to the front which I would think would help me adjust... Scoring or scratches running lengthwise of our lives information on my 8N had to back. Be damaged past the axle seals and get on your brakes PTO bearing flange moisture condenses all... Of that space is air and metal seal will work better, but its usually easy to fix was the. They begin to knock louder as they led to finding the crack in the forward position ''... Certainly sounds easier if it looks like this with an occasional drip gave up the... Sadly neglected your pump has on it control linkage or risk breaking the valve see the oil up!, I can get back to it when properly adjusted and maintained weather, it affects.... Valve arm should begin at the start of movement of the hydraulic touch control lever in the front! No luck JavaScript in your browser before proceeding Zane says link that needs to be in this the! Bore should be very smooth with little or no scoring or scratches running lengthwise a look at the lift... It freely front to back up the good work plugs in any you...

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